From Chop Suey to “How to Cook and Eat in Chinese”: The Early Migration of Chinese Culinary Culture in America

Author:
Chan Ka-Yan
Education:
Department of Chinese as a Second Language, National Taiwan Normal University
E-mail:
22ntnu@gmail.com

Abstract

Chinese culinary culture has spread alongside the migration of Chinese people abroad, with studies of overseas Chinese culinary culture encompassing various academic fields, including the history of Chinese immigration, cultural exchange, and food anthropology. This article focuses on the period from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, examining the early development of Chinese Americans, the rise of Chinese restaurants, the emergence of the ‘Chop Suey’ phenomenon, and the efforts of Chinese Americans to promote Chinese cuisine despite facing anti-Chinese sentiment, thereby fostering American society’s understanding and acceptance of Chinese culinary culture. The evolution of the international environment, adjustments in immigration policies, and the deepening of cross-cultural understanding have gradually shifted the attitudes of the American public towards Chinese culinary culture, sparking their interest in learning to cook Chinese dishes and contributing to the creation of Chinese cookbooks in the United States. The publication of Yang Buwei’s “How to Cook and Eat in Chinese” further advanced American society’s recognition and acceptance of Chinese culinary culture, exerting a profound influence on English-speaking readers’ understanding of Chinese cuisine.


Keywords: American Chinese restaurants, cookbooks, Buwei Yang, culinary culture