Contemporary Discourses on the Local Flavor of “Assembled” Sauce: Examples from the Production Networks of Fermentation Workshops in the Taichung Area

Author:
LEE Yi-tze
Education:
Dept. of Ethnic Relations and Cultures, National Dong Hwa University
E-mail:
iceplee@gmail.com

Abstract

This paper takes three types of fermented food producers, located in the Central Taiwan area, as examples to discuss the transition of fermentation technologies to modern methods and resulting impacts on the scale and efficiency of production processes. One the one hand, fermented food processes have changed from single production chains to mutually dependent networking of functional products. On the other, modernization of family-based food workshops provides new openings for the network of traditional markets as well as new relationships between consumers and producers. The concept of “terroir” in fermented food has also shifted from a focus on local production means to the pursuit of “flavor” of the fermented foods along the lines of modern consumerism. This paper discusses the transition from agriculture-based production chains to industrial-oriented production networks. Taking the cases of three fermented foods as examples-soy sauce, vinegar, and miso paste-this article provides food for thought on the relationship between locality, function, and taste production. In conclusion, this paper suggests application of the concept of “boundary object” in order to review the assemblage of sauce production in contemporary settings.