Abstract

This paper explores the characteristics, breeding, evolution, and consumption of eels in modern Taiwan. Consumable eels (Anguilla Japonica) rely on a specific migratory pattern. After spawning near the west side of the Mariana Trench in the West Pacific Ocean, eels migrate with both the Kuroshio current and its branches, all of which lead toward the East Asian ocean area. Both traditional China and Japan had their respective dietary customs for eels. While Chinese dietary customs focused on the principles of food supplements, Japanese dietary customs focused on the cooking of kabayaki. After the Meiji Restoration, Japan launched a project for the breeding of eels, and after Taiwan became a colony of Japan in 1895, the Japanese also developed a system for breeding eels in Taiwan, hoping to provide a sufficient supply of this fish for both Japan and Taiwan. After the end of the Second World War, the Japanese colonizers of Taiwan fled the island, and the eel industry almost came to a standstill by the 1950s. Starting in the 1960s, aquatic experts started engaging in research on the breeding of eels. Fortunately, by 1964, Japan had opened its gates to imports of eel products from Taiwan, a decision that encouraged Taiwan to fully engage in the breeding of eels. Indeed, Taiwan even won a reputation for being the Kingdom of Eels. By the 1990s, while China competed with other countries for a top place in the export of live eels to Japan, Taiwan competitively changed its policies regarding the breeding of eels. Rather than try to undersell all of its Chinese competitors with the cheapest Japan-friendly product, Taiwanese producers have offered good-quality, healthy, and nutritious kabayaki eel to domestic (Taiwanese) markets. Examiningthe historical and cultural aspects of eels in modern Taiwan can give us multiple perspectives on the eel business, extending from breeding to consumption.

Keywords: eels, consumption, Meiji Restoration, Japan, modern Taiwan