Abstract

This study focuses on the classic Sichuan dish, Mapo Tofu, examining the profound impact of war and political change on its transmission and changes in flavor from the late 19th century to the late 20th century, particularly during the Anti-Japanese War, the Cold War, and the Reform and Opening-up period. The article explores Mapo Tofu’s origins in late Qing Dynasty Chengdu, noting that although various origin stories exist, they are constructed histories reflecting specific purposes through different times. During the Anti-Japanese War, with a population surge in Chengdu as a rear area, Mapo Tofu, originally a local snack, gained popularity due to its affordability, deliciousness, and demand from displaced intellectuals. It gradually evolved into a nationally recognized dish during the post-war and civil war periods, spreading overseas during the Cold War to become a well-known item in Chinese cuisine. The Cultural Revolution brought suppression and the re-naming of the restaurant, but Mapo Tofu revived after the beginning of Reform and Opening-up. This article also analyzes recipe variations across different periods, showing that cooking methods and flavors changed due to changes in the social environment, the supply of ingredients, and political factors, evolving from a local homemade dish to a standardized form, and bearing witness to the global spread and transformation of Chinese food culture. Furthermore, the article notes that Japan’s promotion and adaptation of Mapo Tofu had a reciprocal influence on China’s food industry, symbolizing the intertwining of national food cultures within globalization.

Keywords: tofu, Chen Mapo, Anti-Japanese War, Cold War, japanization