建構「客家美食」與消費客家文化?

Author:
林淑鈴

Abstract

This article aims to describe how “Hakka Food” can be constructed by actors; Hakka culture may be consumed during the process of constructing “Hakka Food” through interpretative and critical opinions. The central and local county government’s policy of “Hakka Food” initiates our research. One policy, “Hakka Food” authentication is promoted by Hakka Affairs Council and hold by an associated agency, Hungkung University in 2012. That policy disciplines the food’s ingredient, food, cookers and restaurant’s management. Then some research programs about “Hakka Food” authentication are followed by Taoyuan and Miaoli County government in 2013. After that, lots of restaurants get the “Hakka Food” identification gradually.
Some questions imbedded in the “Hakka Food” authentication followed by the rising Hakka food restaurants in modern Taiwan are as followed. What is “Hakka Food”? Who is defining “Hakka Food”? How can we promote the tradition of Hakka food culture through “Hakka Food” authentication? If the purpose of “Hakka Food” authentication is to promote the tradition of Hakka food culture, can we attain that by evaluating “Hakka Food” restaurants? Having certificating policy and research programs of “Hakka Food” participated by food industry managers, governors and professors majored in Hakka food, so that “Hakka Food” authentication is constructed by all the actors. The certificating process signifies what Hakka food cultural development in Taiwan will be.
The actors same with narrators are including managers of Hakka food restaurants, governors in the central or local county government, professors majored in Hakka food, and consumers of Hakka food. Actor’s narration of Hakka food represents micro and everyday life’s influence. It is different from that central or local county government defines what ”Hakka Food” is and gets its power downwardly. After answering the questions in the above, we hope actors in the constructing process try to find out the possibilities of Hakka (food) culture development.