Abstract

Salt is a common preservative which is also used to modify and enhance the flavour of food, such as salted fish and pickles, in Taiwan. Nowadays, most Taiwanese food processors use artificial preservatives to enhance the quality and safety of the sauces for food; rather than seeing salt in its original preservative function, processors see it merely as an ingredient for seasoning. Food safety regulations have been imposed on the food processing industry to reduce the excessive use of artificial preservatives. Also, consumers increasingly pay attention to processors’ practices due to food safety episodes and the stronger public health awareness in recent years. As a response, some sauce plants have developed new formulas that minimize or even eliminate artificial preservatives. In 2014, a local cultural association in Chiayi County attempted to develop a new brand of soy sauce and fermented soy bean that includes solar salt and local organic soy beans. The association aimed to exclude artificial preservatives. It found and cooperated with a local artisanal sauce plant to develop this product line. The association planned to promote the sauce and beans together with local dishes such as milkfish and tilapia. As an anthropologist in the field, I was invited by the association to conduct participant observation of the product development. In this article, I focus on their discussion and tasting exercises of different samples. The discussion was related to preservation technology and flavour enhancement. In examining this case, I further analyze how different actors understand preservation technology, food safety, health, and flavour. Taiwanese agricultural communities are eager to develop, brand, and market their products. I illustrate their practices and struggles in their attempts to differentiate their products from others. I argue that consumers’ practices, processing technology, and marketing practices affect the value of agricultural products in Taiwan. I also reflect on how the perspective of applied anthropology can contribute to local culinary culture in Taiwan.